Ciao Bella Tours

Duck Duck Goose

2010-09-29T12:22:00.002+01:00

The best thing that could happen to any traveler is that they fall into un-chartered territory. I mean, step right into it. Although we don’t admit it, this is exactly why all of us travel. The odd things that happen along the way are what bring color to the journey. They are the moments we remember and tell again and again to our friends back at home. No postcard can capture them. No iphone can send them. They are just part of who we are as voyeurs and eventually lead us to the next adventure.

This year has been no exception for Ciao Bella Tours and myself personally. The year started with a bang in Paris, snow covered Paris, people stuck on the Eurostar...that Paris. It was a grand affair, with happy clients snuggled in their hotel beds, or gathering in wine bars and Parisian Brasseries like there was no tomorrow. Live jazz filled the streets once the sun came out and this year the locals seemed particularly friendly.

Then came the Russian Mafia. I was offered an assignment to go down to Mougins in the South of France to help with the renovations of a luxury home on the coast overlooking Cannes. The next thing I knew I was flown down there, practically airlifted from London to Nice, only to find I was in house arrest in a lonely loveless home. I was returned to Europe like an unwanted Christmas gift no sooner than I could say “Babushka”.

The months following in London seemed the longest of my life and quite frankly, probably were. Somehow I seemed to age right before my very eyes and decided this was no way to grow old. Paris was calling. The month of July was filled with hot days, hot nights and unbearable sweltering discomfort from every angle. I loved it. You can never be too uncomfortable in Paris. Armed with a tiny 13m2 studio, a clic clac and some seriously chilled rosé, I took the city by storm. The month was dedicated to improving the CiaoChase Paris and without hesitation I can say it is fantastic. Clever clues, risqué riddles will lead you all over the city to experience it like you never have before. A grand success you might say.

Then came the cave spelunking. My “associate” (my big brother actually) and I spent 3 weeks traveling through New Zealand in a Camper Van working on a new travel television series we are going to pitch early next year. I can’t give all the details way, but for viewers you’ll soon find an enticing pilot that highlights crazy adventures such as skiing on an active volcano, cave repelling, black water rafting, wine tasting, jet boating and waterfall hiking. Oh, and your favorite travel planner will be there for the ride.

Now I’m in Italy, where I truly feel I belong and want everyone that travels with Ciao to experience it too. I needed to spend 2 weeks back in my old stomping ground in Tuscany, scouting the area for even better finds, more beautiful vineyards, villas with sweeping views and of course, some great vino.

I’m living on a farm near Pievescola, an actual working farm with actual working chickens. I’m not sure what time they clock on but I hear them at all hours of the day. Don’t worry, I won’t send any of you here. This is just a home base while I go out every day to meet the very people who you will make your tour incredible. From wine producers to villa owners, olive oil connoisseurs and cheese makers to tiny hilltop villages, I’ve driven my little Fiat 500 all over Tuscany. Ciao Bella clients will be thrilled with my findings, so get ready for some very creative tours for you passionate people in 2011.

Today, I hung up my wet laundry out on the line near the chicken coop. I chatted in Italian with the grandmother of the family farm who doted a lovely thick mustache, but I discovered she was the kindest soul I’ve ever met. It seemed we had a moment but it maybe something might have been lost in translation. Ask anyone; those are usually without a doubt my best conversations. The chickens, though, seemed happy enough to peck right along with their day. I, on the other hand, have decided the adventure doesn’t stop here. There will be more, many more. More colors, more moments and with a little help, more memories to share with all of you.

Buon viaggo!

Nichole

New Year: New Outlook

2010-01-24T13:00:00.008Z

Inspiration comes in many forms. I tend to find it when I’m on the road, traveling to new and exciting places, trying new things and certainly speaking new languages. For myself and many of us, 2009 was not the greatest year for inspiration.
With foreclosures, unemployment and homeland security issues, the prospect of international travel seemed pretty slim if not impossible. I spent last year flying between the UK and the US, sort of lost in life, and found myself, a travel consultant, with very little to consult on.

But let’s not forget that Ciao Bella did indeed have many a happy client last year. We had a family of 3 generations travel through Barcelona, Paris and Italy. We had mothers and daughters explore the wonders of Tuscany together and an adventurous independent traveler see Paris through the eyes of her camera. We had two couples on their honeymoon, a Golden Wedding Anniversary and a surprise engagement on bended knee in Provence.

We had physically challenged clients see the wonders of Versailles by private tour, a pastry fanatic search for Vienna’s tastiest treats and overworked businessmen bike through the Chianti hillside. We had a father and daughter travel to Granada's magical Alhambra and a happy couple hike through the Swiss Alps. We had a recovering patient enjoy the view of the vineyards from his private villa, and a family brave the December snowstorm which left them stranded in the City of Light with only wine, French food and an attentive travel consultant to take care of them. Overall, it was an exceptionally good year.

With the New Year also comes a new outlook for many of us. I know it does for me. With big plans to do more of the small things in life, I look forward to the adventures that lay ahead of us and the new friends I’ll make along the way.

Happy Travels Everyone,

Nichole

One Day In Paris

2008-09-28T17:12:00.002+01:00

Paris, unlike any other city in the world, can provoke such utterly powerful emotions that one cannot help but get caught up in the moment. One day in Paris can bring out the best in us, the worst, expanding our knowledge of all things we thought we knew before stepping on seemingly solid Parisian ground.

Imagine........Waking up in your flat on rue Lepic to sounds of German and American tourists, following the flag of their fearless leader as they climb the never-ending hills to heart of it all, the glorious Sacré Coeur. Your feet can’t keep up, each cobblestone becoming a blur among the passing boulangeries, the intoxicating smell of fresh croissant so early in the morning an invitation to stop. The view from the cathedral is stunning, a realistic portrayal of Parisian life, sleepy and gray and waiting to be discovered.

Pressed heavily onto the metro amongst those hurrying off to work, you soon find yourself with no real destination or purpose. Standing uncomfortably, you count each stop in anticipation. Sweat begins to drip down the small of your back beneath the winter coat you prematurely put on this morning in hopes to push the season. The buzzer sounds, a mad dash for the door, and the line begins to move. Each cold aversion of morning eye contact is deafening, the next stop doesn’t seem to come fast enough. You shove your way out, running up the stairs to reach daylight, the fresh air pouring over you. You’ve finally found your place again.

Lunchtime in St Germain encompasses everything you’ve ever wanted to see in a French film. With a table near the window, you to shamelessly people watch, taking in the fluid footsteps of the perfectly coiffed femmes on the street. Annoyed by the close proximity of your neighboring table, their incessant silence, and the alluring way they look at one another. The waiter arrives, rushed, unpleasant and irritated when he realizes you haven’t noticed the specials on the black board. Le Plat du Jour you say without thinking, avoiding an adolescent confrontation with him. Soon arrives a demi carafe of vin rouge, un-labled, without domaine, just as you are, sitting there feeling nostalgic for the sweet scent of ghostly cigarettes that no longer exist. As the check arrives you’re overcome by a wave of disappointment, sounding that the meal is over and soon you are pushed out onto rue des Cannettes as if you never came.

By afternoon, the leafs in the Tuilleries are damp, clinging to your boots as you button your coat against the chill. The slow procession leading up to the Louvre is a reminder of things greater than this solitary moment. Heading home, pacing yourself for the climb, each passing person a shadow, a swift stroke like Monet’s brush on canvas. You hear music above as your key turns in the door, creaking floorboards beneath your heavy heart, the muffled grunt of a neighbor downstairs, water running, a warm place to call home. The broken latch on the window, flung open, invites a gust of wind through the room, like grandmother’s cold hands on your face. The bells chime slowly, signaling the day is done.

The New Look of Ciao Bella Tours!

2008-08-07T22:48:00.004+01:00

Greetings from Italy!

To all my clients, colleagues, friends and family, I am very happy to announce the new look of Ciao Bella Tours. Working closely with our web designer at Alt29, we've managed to create a more professional and dynamic site that will hopefully inspire everyone to travel to Europe this next year!

Thanks again to everyone who has made this season a success. I hope to see you all soon!

Nichole Buscher

All Roads Lead to Rome...

2008-08-07T22:37:00.003+01:00

My time here in Tuscany has officially come to a close...for now. I'm leaving the sleepy town of Arezzo and heading for bigger and better cities. And as they say, all roads lead to Rome.

The move was a practical one for some reasons. As many of you know, we offer quite a lot of tours and activities in Rome, so it made sense to try and set up shop there and really get to know the city from the inside out. But I have to say for once, it wasn't work that inspired the sudden move, it was the city itself.

Years ago, on my first visit to the capital, I felt overwhelmed and slightly put off by Rome. It seemed too big, too noisy, too many of those crazy Vespa riding Italians. The years went on and it started to grow on me, but more so as a vacation place, or a quick weekend to meet friends or catch up with one of our guides.

Last month, I finally understood. The fall of Rome isn't about history, but about what happens to people when they finally "get it". You fall in love with it's quirks and discover a whole new feel for the city. On my visit, I tried to do a few things I'd done in the past but take a new look at it. My morning visit to the Borghese Museum and gardens was spectacular. It was unlike anything I'd experienced before. The museum, in my mind, is on par with the Louvre, offering some of the most impressive sculptures and statues I've ever seen. Campo de'Fiori, Fontana del Mascherone, Trastevere and even the now popular Monti area were calling me. I think I had the best four days of single travel, ever. That says a lot coming from a travel consultant.

But it wasn't just sightseeing. It was the people. Although the Italians in general are very kind, open and eager to chat, there is something about the energy in Rome that propels you to speak to people. It's a living, breathing city. And now I live and breath here.

Be sure to check back regularly for updates on our new tours in Rome, the guides I've been meeting and the wonderful stories only a city like Rome can tell.

New Town...New Toscana

2008-06-01T14:15:00.011+01:00

For those eager readers out there, you might be surprised to find that my three month stay in Lucca has finally come to a close. Although the town itself is spectacular to visit as a tourist, I found it's medieval walls to be a bit confining at times. But oh, things I learned! From local scandals between butchers to the secret social etiquette known only to the elite Lucchese, my time there was certainly an experience not to forget.

So where am I headed now? Before heading home for my best friends wedding (congratulations Tom & Amanda!) I managed to find a little place in the lovely town of Arezzo. Maybe some of you have heard of it before from the Academy Award winning film "Life is Beautiful". With little time to fully explore before my departure, I returned "home" this week, suitcase in hand, ready to have a good look at life on the other side of Toscana. Located near the Chianti wine region, I'm in heaven. Ready to wet my whistle on a local Brunello di Montalcino or a personal favorite, Vino Nobile di Montipulciano, I forsee my summer here to be a jolly one.

It's not always about the wine (or food I guess). I'll be taking the time to make new local contacts with guides, private chefs, Tuscan villas, and really get to know this part of the country. With local towns nearby such as Cortona, Montepulciano, Montevarchi, and so many more, how can you resist? Check back monthly for my reports and details on new tours as they are experienced.

Where on Earth.....???

2008-03-07T19:02:00.003Z

Some of you loyal CBT readers may be wondering where on earth I am these days? That's an easy answer: Everywhere!

After my stay in Monteleone (Umbria) I found myself on a 3 week vacation to Thailand with my brother. What a trip! I need an entirely different Blog for this! After returning to Europe, I was lucky enough to find a place in the lovely city of Lucca, a fantastic medieval town in the heart of Tuscany. Here I'm continuing my Italian lessons and my search for the perfect "Super Tuscan Wines"....check out my article on Planet Eye's "Florence" Expert Page: www.planeteye.com

But how do I stay busy? Well this week I'm back in Paris, making visits to all your favorite guides, suppliers and restaurants to make sure our high standards are being met for this busy upcoming season. I had the opportunity to spend the day in Borgogne with one of our favorite wine sommeliers...it was incredible! With visits to small, private vineyards boasting the regions best Chablis & Pinot Noir wines, I was in heaven. This is a perfect day trip from Paris and our host will make you feel more like family friends than a tourist. I was welcomed with open arms into 12th century caves, private cellars and people's homes. This will be a lasting memory!

I've also spent quite a bit of time here in Paris getting ready for the Ciao Chase, researching new locations and working my magic at those crazy riddles our clients love so much. Our next step is to continue the Chase on to Italy, so keep your eye out for our new Ciao Chase Florence coming soon!

We are also happy to continue our collaboration with Paris Vacation Apartments and Provence West. Please have a look at their websites if you're looking for luxury accommodations in either Paris or the South of France-both agencies are incredible!

We are happy to welcome a small selection of new guides to our family. They really are the people who make these trips so wonderful.

To all our clients going to France, Italy, Austria, Switzerland, Belgium & the Netherlands this summer, we wish you all a great season! Happy Travels from everyone here at Ciao Bella Tours!

Cioccoshow " La magia del Cioccolato"

2007-11-20T17:47:00.000Z

Look out chocolate lovers! Every year, various Italian cities host the most amazing festival of chocolate called the "Ciococshow". This last weekend I was lucky enough to be in Bologna during this amazing event. Hundreds of people from across the world where there to partake in a feast of chocolate creations. At least a hundred and fifty booths filled Piazza Maggiore for 5 days of coco lust. I myself had a chance to try a shot of warm, rich white hot chocolate. It was to die for! They had everything, from chocolate dipped cookies and fruit, to chocolate tortes dusted with the finest dark chocolate powders, to truffle balls, coffee spoons & cell phones and chocolate covered...well...chocolate! It was wonderful. What a way to set off the holiday season of gift giving and overeating. From booth to booth you could sample bit size bits of chocolate fudge, delicous candies and warm cups filled to the brim with all types of hot chocolate imaginable! Lucky for all of us on Sunday night the tents folded and the fountains finally ran dry. But if you're a chocolate lover, be sure to be here next year for the festivities!

Buon Cioccolato!

Just Another Day in Paradise.....

2007-11-07T16:22:00.000Z

Today was a perfect day all around. I woke up a bit late this chilly morning to a sunny view of Monteleone. I quickly grabbed some breakfast and hopped on the scooter (dubbed "Little Red") and headed off to the neighboring town of Città della Pieve for my Italian lessons. For those of you that aren't familiar with Umbria, there are so many little (and not so little) towns to explore. I am quite near Citta della Pieve, Chiusi, Perugia, Montelfalco and others I have yet to discover. This is a perfect place to explore by car, stopping at each location, having lunch, seeing the old cathedrals, piazzas and its city walls. It's just beautiful here.

Another fun yet inspiring Italian lesson today...with a focus on my two favorite things: food and wine! I finally know how to order when I go to the market, what food to buy, etc. Now the problem is figuring out how to prepare it! Not to fear, next week in Bologna I have 2 very interesting activities lined up: a Walking Culinary Tour with a local guide and a hands on Cooking Class with a lovely Italian woman at her central Bologna B&B. The menu boasts of bruschetta, the ever famous Tortellini alla Bolangnese and of course, some delicious vino! I'll keep you posted.....Tonight I'll try my hand at stuffed eggplant (I'm sure it will taste better than it sounds).

Now the day is coming to an end and I'm here enjoying an Italian sunset as I write this. For anyone looking for an escape, or a small sliver of what heaven looks like, come for a visit.....

Au Revoir Paris....Ciao Italia!

2007-11-01T22:38:00.000Z

Owner and managing director of Ciao Bella Tours, Nichole Buscher, finds herself living in a 12th century village in Italy...

I have to tell our clients, my three year stay in Paris has been amazing! Not to worry though, I will continue to visit often, splitting my time between Italy and France for next year and having new tours and updates as often as possible. After a month living in Provence in south of France (article to follow shortly) I found my way into Italy, my second love and our most popular destination for CBT clientele. I decided I wanted a completely different experience from what I had in Paris, but still getting in touch with the locals, learning the language, and of course, the regional cuisine and wines. What better way to pass on Italy tips to our clients than to experience them myself? I currently reside in a small town called Monteleone d'Orvieto located in the lovely countryside of Umbria and on the border of Tuscany. This 12th century medieval village is a far cry from the hussle and bussle of Parisian life...but I absolutely love it.

I've rented a small one-bedroom apartment located in the city center with a stunning view of the neighboring vineyards and rolling hills. The season is now upon us, and the Umbria colors are incredible. Everyday as I work from home, a few neighbors pass by with a peak in the window and a friendly "Ciao!" My Italian is rapidly improving with the kind people of Monteleone to practice on. The hospitality here is overwhelming but welcome as in most small Italian villages, I can't seem to get enough of it.

A few times a week I take the scooter into the nearby city of Citta della Pieve, a stunning town with red brick buildings, churches and a lovely main piazza. I have my weekly lessons with a local woman names Rosaria, who laughs often at my questions of grammar and rules...she tells me its Italy, you can speak as you like, make changes when you want. I love this language!

I've tried my hand at cooking, and found a recipe for the best minnestrone soup I've ever had. I can't say its been passed down from generation to generation, but it sure tastes like it! In the coming weeks I will be coming and going to Bologna for work and taking a few walking culinary tours, and a hands on cooking class with a local chef. I'll keep you posted!

For 2008 the owner of this lovely apartment and Ciao Bella are in the works for offering it to our clients looking for an escape from the city life (Rome is 1 hour away, Florence 1.5 hours by car). Please email me for more details.

Padova Markets Tour

2007-11-01T22:37:00.001Z

For those of you staying in Venice, we now offer a day excursion to a local favorite, the city of Padova. If you aren't familiar with it, Padova is located in the Veneto, claiming to be the oldest city in northern Italy. Padova is picturesque, with a dense network of arcaded streets opening into large communal piazze, and many bridges crossing the various branches of the Bacchiglione, which once surrounded the ancient walls like a moat.Padua is the setting for most of the action in Shakespeare's The Taming of the Shrew. Its one of those perfect cities, large enough to have everything you need, but small enough to really get a local flavor and sense of how real Italians live.

Here you'll find our expert guide Brad, an American living in Padova for 4 years now and he knows the city like the back of his hand. Together we've created a full day excursion with city highlights such as the famous markets, walking tour, lunch at a local trattoria followed by an afternoon wine tasting before heading back to Venice. We can also arrange a private guided afternoon to the city of Verona if your group would like to experience both cities. This is a wonderful alternative to the tourist destinations you find in Venice and a memorable Italian experience. Contact us for more details!

Thanksgiving in Paris

2007-11-01T22:10:00.003Z

Many of our PVA guests will be in Paris during the traditional North American holiday we lovingly call "Thanksgiving". Although the French don't celebrate this holiday along with us, don't despair, there are many ways to show your gratitude while in the City of Light....

My first year in Paris, along with a handful of foreign exchange students I had met in class, we all decided a night out to celebrate thanks was in order. We had quite a few options, none of which were to cook a delicous meal for 20 people in a tiny Parisian flat! So we put on our coats and headed out to the Latin Quarter. Although we ended up at a less traditional meal of margaritas & mexican food (I am from San Diego after all!) there were quite a few restaurants to choose from that offer some sort of Thanksgiving meal. A tad pricey, you won't be feeling nostalgic with the large menu offered below:

Here are a list of some of the places offering a Thanksgiving meal:

***American Church in Paris Traditional Thanksgiving Dinner:
Join friends at the ACP for a home-cooked, traditional Thanksgiving Dinner on Saturday, Nov. 25.
The menu includes turkey with all the trimmings, including stuffing, yams, potatoes, gravy, and
home-made pies! We’ll gather for a drink at 6:30 and dinner will begin serving at 7:30. Tickets
are €18 for adults, €12 for students, €8 for kids 5-12, and kids under 5 are free. A great way to
top off the Thanksgiving week-end!

***The Moosehead Paris:
Moosehead Paris, Canadian bar and grill. Your 'Home away from Home'. Enjoy our friendly and comfortable atmosphere. Relax and chat with our friendly bilingual staff.
www.mooseheadparis.com
Address : 16, rue des Quatre Vents - 75006 Paris

***Lizard Lounge:
18, Rue Bourg Tibourg
75004 Paris, France
+33 1 42 72 81 34

***Somo:
68 Rue Montmartre Paris
Telephone: 33 1 4013 0880

***For those of you looking for a homecooked meal, I can suggest the following store that offer typical American items:

The Real McCoy
The Real McCoy The largest selection of US goods in Europe! 194 rue de Grenelle (Arr 7) The McCoy Café - The real taste of America! Breakfast, Brunch, Lunch and Dinner cooked to order. At 49 ave Bosquet (Arr 7)
Tel: 01 45 56 98 82 / 01 45 56 00 00 Fax: 01 45 62 24 10

Or better yet, why not skip the cooking and have a catered Thanksgiving dinner right at home?

http://www.thanksgivingparis.com/
Catering to Parisians of all nationalities since 1990, Thanksgiving can provide full service including chefs, waitstaff, and rentals; or just great food delivered to your home, office or other site. Our style, while drawn from Louisiana's Cajun and Creole cultures, reflects the creativity and diversity of the ever-evolving American cuisine along with the irreproachable techniques of classical and modern French cooking. Whether planning a cocktail reception for two hundred, a sit-down family dinner for twelve, or an important business presentation for fifty, we will be happy to create a personal menu based upon the occasion, the facilities, and your budget.

Specialists in the traditional Thanksgiving dinner, we provide the entire feast on Thanksgiving Thursday as well as the following Friday and Saturday: whole roast and cornbread-stuffed turkeys with gravy, cranberry sauce, candied yams, pecan green beans and the traditional desserts. All is homemade on premises and must be ordered in advance. Some reheating may be required. We also serve the traditional meal in our restaurant for the 3 days - please reserve well in advance by telephone +33 (0)1 42 77 68 28 or 29, or contact us by email.

Our restaurant, located in Paris' historic Marais district, can accommodate up to thirty-five seated guests in our main dining room; we also have a smaller room available for private parties from twelve to twenty.

*** Author's note:
Of course, my personal suggestion is to fight the urge to bring America to France with you, forget the turkey, and share deliciously traditional French meal amongst friends and family.

Bon appetit everyone!

Le Beaujolais Nouveau Est Arrivé !

2007-11-01T22:10:00.002Z

The new Beaujolais has arrived! Beaujolais is sold every year beginning the third Thursday in November. In 1995 and 1994 this day fell on 16 November - and Beaujolais was distributed throughout the world on that day. According to the specialists 1994 was a ``grande année'' for wines, and the Beaujolais was no exception.
Most thought 1995 was 'okay', but there has been so much debate about 1996 that its probably fair to say that this year is not too special.
Technically there are two kinds of Beaujolais - primeur and nouveau, but let us leave these details behind.

A young wine, Beaujolais never needs to be taken too seriously, so its easier to enjoy than the more distinguished vintages. Beaujolais itself comes from the Beaujolais region of southern Burgundy (in France of course). It was not always so popular, but in recent times, Beaujolais has become fashionable, and people all over the world enjoy the hoopla associated with being among the first to taste it.

(article courtesty of Paris.org)

The stinkier the better...the myth of French Cheese

2007-11-01T22:10:00.001Z

“How can anyone govern a nation that has 246 different kinds of cheese?”....quote by President de Gaulle

For 3 years now, I've attempted to comprehend the myths of good French cheese, where it comes from, how to order it and when to eat it. For many American's, the thought of wandering into a cheese shop in Paris and ordering what is seemingly moldy cheese is both an exciting and daunting experience: What on earth to order? Where do we start?

I'm certain there are many of you reading this that are very savy of the various French cheeses, so hopefully this article won't offend. This is mainly for those looking to get their feet wet in the art of cheese and what to ask for when at an outdoor market in Paris or passing a small cheese shop. Go in, be curious, and try!

A small note: One thing to keep in mind, the French eat cheese after the meal, not before as we do in the States!

(Article courtesty of http://www.frencheese.co.uk/)

With over 500 French cheeses available in a delicious range of flavours - from the very mild to the quite powerful - there's an almost endless variety to choose from.
French cheese is a traditional food that's ideally suited to a busy lifestyle. Perfect for creating super-quick healthy snacks or delicious treats, French cheeses are high in nutrients and big on flavour. Use them in a pasta sauce, sandwich, tossed in a salad or as a topping on a vegetable bake. Or, enjoy them on their own as a meal in their own right.
Great for parties, spread French cheese on crackers and biscuits for canapés, or on a cheeseboard served with lots of crusty french bread. And, they're not as fattening as you might think.

****The Basics: Camembert, Chevre, Roquefort***

CAMEMBERT

This is the perfect time to revel in the gourmet heights of one of France’s most famous cheeses, handmade only from unpasteurised Normandy milk. Because they mature an average of six weeks you are guaranteed to be eating cheese made with the luscious milk of the spring flushes, universally acknowledged as one of the best times of the year. What’s the difference between them and other Bries and Camemberts? First, the unpasteurised milk gives richer, more complex layers of flavour. Second, they look different. When unpasteurised Camembert AOC are ready to eat they always have brown markings on their white crusts: if cheeses made with unpasteurised milk have brown marking this can mean they are over-ripe.

Camembert is perfectly ripe when the body is the same supple, butter-smooth texture throughout, but many like to eat them a bit younger with a paler, drier layer in the middle. Camembert AOC is spectacularly good with other Normandy produce such ripe pears, fresh or grilled, and with strawberries, also just coming into season. And they are just the sort of thing to make a salad into a meal.

According to legend, this famous cheese was invented during the French Revolution by a farmer, Marie Harel. It is said that she developed Camembert in 1791 together with a priest, whom she hid on her farm. Napoleon III was an admirer of Camembert and served it at his court. In 1880 the engineer Ridel had the idea to wrap Camembert in a box of thin wood, allowing it to be sent on journeys and even exported.

CHEVRE

French goat cream cheeses have become quite trendy. Because of their mild, subtle goat's milk flavours, they are ideal for "goat's cheese beginners" and are flexible enough to be used in the preparation of different meals.
They are different from the ripened cheeses, as they are mostly produced with only lactic acid bacteria and without the addition of lab. Directly after production, they are packaged and ready for consumption. They don't need any further ripening, and the sour character is retained.

Suggestions:
Small round goat cream cheeses are especially good for the preparation of Chèvre chaud, a classic dish in the French kitchen. The small goat cheese pieces can be left natural, coated with bread crumbs, or wrapped in bacon strips and then baked or heated in the oven.

ROQUEFORT

Roquefort, from the south of France, is characterised by its very white body pierced by blue-green mould veins. It looks and seems crumbly but is exceptionally smooth and rich on the palate.
Excellent by itself, it is preferred by many when accompanied by butter and can be crumbled to add savoury tang into sauces, onto baked potatoes – even into salad dressings.
A similar cheese to Roquefort existed in Roman times, and was mentioned by Plinius in the year 79 . In 1411, Karl VI allowed the inhabitants of Roquefort to have the monopoly for ripening this cheese in their caves. Even today, this cheese can only be ripened in the natural stone caves of the Mont Combalou in the community of Roquefort-sur-Sulzon.

See below for a list of local fromageries near your apartment

Paris Holiday Festivities are here!

2007-11-01T22:09:00.000Z

For those of you wondering what to do in Paris for Christmas and New Years this year, Ciao Bella is happy to help reserve for all PVA guests this seasn at a special discounted price!

Here you'll find the holiday events for the Seine Dinner Cruise & Moulin Rouge. If you're not into seeing a show, we can also suggest going to the Seine River for New Year's (Pont Neuf is my favorite) and watch the fireworks, or to the famous Champs-Elysees or Eiffel Tower for the best show in town!

Next month we'll feature how the French celebrate the holidays in Paris.....

***CHRISTMAS FESTIVITIES***

MOULIN ROUGE CHRISTMAS EVE 2007
We are pleased to send you our program for the Christmas Eve 2007 at the Moulin Rouge in Paris: Monday, December 24th

7 p.m : Dancing Dinner, with the Moulin Rouge Orchestra
9 p.m : Our Show “Féerie”

***Special Ciao Bella Tours Rate : 155€ per person
(Regular public rate of 160€ per person)

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SEINE CHRISTMAS EVE LUNCH
We are pleased to send you our program for the Christmas Lunch 2007 with Bateaux Parisiens in Paris: Tuesday, December 25th. Live Entertainment provided for the lunch, formal attire required

12:00 p.m : Check in
12:45 p.m : Departure
2:30pm return to the quai, end of service at 3pm

RATES:
Etoile Service : 65€ per person
Select Service : 75€ per person
Premier Service : 85€ per person
Children under 12 years of age : 36€ per child

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SEINE DINNER CRUISE CHRISTMAS EVE 2007
We are pleased to send you our program for the Christmas Eve 2007 with Bateaux Parisiens in Paris: Monday, December 24th. Live Entertainment provided for the evening, formal attire required

7:30 p.m : Check in
8:30 p.m : Departure
11:00pm return to the quai, end of service at midnight

RATES:
Etoile Service : 125€ per person
Select Service : 146€ per person
Premier Service : 160€ per person

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***NEW YEAR’S FESTIVITIES***

MOUINE ROUGE NEW YEAR'S EVE 2007
We are pleased to send you our program for the New Year's Eve 2006 at the Moulin Rouge in Paris:

9 p.m. : Dancing dinner with the Moulin Rouge orchestra
Midnight : Greetings & Revue “Féerie”
2 a.m. : Dancing Party

SPECIAL CIAO BELLA RATE : 540 € per person
(Regular public rate of 550€ per person)

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SEINE NEW YEAR'S EVE DINNER CRUISE 2007
We are pleased to send you our program for New Year’s Eve 2007 with Bateaux Parisiens in Paris: Monday, December 31st. Live Entertainment provided for the evening, formal attire required

7:30 p.m : Check in
8:30 p.m : Departure
12:30 am return to the quai, end of service at dawn

RATES:
Etoile Service : 300€ per person
Select Service : 380€ per person
Premier Service : 460€ per person
Le Bretagne : 500€ full buffet

For more information regarding booking, please contact info@ciaobellatours.com

"Paris Inside Out"

2007-04-25T18:42:00.000+01:00

Each month, Ciao Bella Tours will showcase a Tour of the Month in one of our favorite destination cities. For this month, here's a new take on a walking tour in the City of Lights:

PARIS "INSIDE OUT"

Discover the Paris that only the locals get a chance to see. We’ll show you where the real Parisians live, shop, drink and dine far from the crowds of tour groups and buses. Get off the beaten path and discover the hidden Paris never mentioned in guidebooks. Our tours are custom designed for small groups or individuals who want to see the Paris of Parisians: charming cobblestone streets, lively markets, specialized boutiques, authentic French bistros, legendary museums and quirky cafés. See the real Paris from the Inside Out!

We can specialize in the following neighborhoods:

• Eccentric Marais
• Artistic Oberkampf
• Lively Latin Quarter
• Village of Montmartre
• Outrageous Opéra

Select any of your interests below and we’ll create a fun, quirky, and completely original 3 hour walking tour!

- Wine-where to taste, buy and enjoy wine in Paris
- Food only the French could love
- Best Bistros & Bars of Paris
- Shopping/Boutiques
- Music
- French Cinema
- Old Wives Tales
- Museum & Art Lovers
- Deadly Desserts
- Paris Scandals
- Perfect Souvenirs
- Culture Shock

Paris Tours

2007-04-25T18:27:00.000+01:00

Ciao Bella Tours has created some new and unique walking tours in Paris that we're sure our clients will enjoy. Whether you're a food lover, history buff or artist, we have something for you! Contact us at: info@ciaobellatours.com for more information.

FOUNTAINS OF YOUTH

Enjoy a truly unique walking tour of Paris’ most famous fountains, with historical commentary from your private guide, followed by a visit to a luxury day spa for a relaxing massage.

MARKETS OF PARIS

Explore the culinary wonders of Paris’ famous street markets on this private walking tour. Perfect for budding chefs & food lovers alike!

PROMENADE DES VINS

Enjoy four different tastings at local wine bars known for their quality French wines. Our favorite wine sommelier will guide you through some of the greatest caves on the Right Bank.

GAY LOUVRE TOUR

Step back into a time where men were adored, the body worshiped, and mankind on the verge of enlightenment. This 3-hour private guided tour will focus on the incredible collection of spiritually-inspired masterpieces led by artists like da Vinci, Michelangelo and Caravaggio.

GAY MARAIS

Discover by foot the district that is the epicenter of gay life in France. Spanning the 3rd and 4th “arrondissements”, this neighborhood vibrates not only from a historical aristocratic past, but a multicultural, not to mention, incredibly hip present. There will be plenty of time for the highlights: trendy boutiques, fanciful galleries, and unforgettable 17th century architecture. “Êtes-vous prêts?”

KING FOR A DAY

Focus on the major leaders in France & their role in French history as we know it! Your day starts with a private walking tour of the famous Tuilleries Gardens and the history of the Louvre, followed by a visit to one of the nearby chateaux, the famous “Palace of Versailles” or the ever-contending “Vaux le Vicomte.”

HEMINGWAY'S PARIS

"If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast." See Paris as Hemingway did in the 1920’s on this historical walking tour of the Latin Quarter, with tales of his controversial life & friends, known as the “Lost Generation”

RAGS TO RICHES SHOPPING TOUR

Our Paris personal shopper will help you find the best Paris offers, from open markets, to high-end luxury shopping of the Opera or St Germain district.

PORTRAITS OF PARIS: A PHOTOGRAPHY TOUR

With our expert photographer, armed with cameras and supplies, you will see where some of Paris’ most famous monuments were captured on film. Re-create the classics or try your own on this 4-hour walking tour of the city center.

ARTISTS OF MONTMARTRE

Some of the most memorable works were inspired on these quaint cobblestone streets, from artists including Vincent Van Gogh, Henri Matisse, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Edgar Degas and Toulouse-Lautrec. This 4-hour walking tour will showcase where they lived and worked, while drawing their inspiration from the hillside neighborhood known as Montmarte.

CLASSIC PARIS TOUR

A nostalgic view of Paris seen from the backseat of a vintage Citroën car, this 3 hour highlights tour will cover nearly every major monument in the city. You will discover the marvelous charms of Paris being driven by a private, courteous and knowledgeable guide.

CITY OF LIGHTS WELCOME TOUR

Perfect for those that have never been to Paris, or seasoned veterans, these tried and true activities are a must see while in the City of Lights.

Includes:
• Airport transfers to/from your accommodations in a private car w/chauffeur
• Premier Seine Dinner Cruise on Bateaux Parisiens
• Museum Pass (2 day)
• City Tour-get to know Paris- A truly UNIQUE way to see Paris with “4 Wheels under 1 Umbrella” Thanks to its convertible soft top roof the 2CV offers a magnificent panoramic view. You will discover the marvelous charms of Paris being driven by a private, courteous and knowledgeable guide.
• Moulin Rouge Show

Best Boulangeries in Paris

2007-04-20T19:56:00.000+01:00

When it comes to iconic baguettes, flaky croissants and melt-in-your-mouth pains au chocolat, the French capital delivers.

Article Courtesy of Linda Dannenberg of Travel + Leisure (found on www.cnn.com April 20, 2007)

Croissants

The shop: Vintage glass panels frame the façade of Maison Kayser (14 Rue Monge, Fifth Arr.; 33-1/44-07-17-81; closed Mondays), a destination boulangerie in the Latin Quarter. Eric Kayser turns out 60 different breads each day, among them the Malesherbes, a square-tipped baguette. His finely crafted viennoiseries -- France's traditional breakfast pastries -- are as notable as his breads. The Kayser café is the perfect spot for a light lunch; a plat du jour, desser and coffee are about $15.

Don't miss: His croissants, decadently plump, with a golden exterior that flakes at the merest touch and a meltingly tender center.

Sourdough loaves

The shop: On weekend mornings, expect to find a queue snaking down the sidewalk from Dominique Saibron's contemporary glass, wood, and stone emporium, Le Boulanger de Monge (123 Rue Monge, Fifth Arr.; 33-1/43-37-54-20; closed Mondays). Fans (you'll be one!) can't get enough of his petits pains aux lardons et comté, slim, chewy rolls with bits of bacon and melted Comté cheese, or escargots cannelle, cinnamon-filled pinwheels of croissant dough with a buttery crumb topping.

Don't miss: The best-selling pain bio au levain, a delicately tangy organic sourdough loaf.

Miche

The shop: Master baker Lionel Poilâne died several years ago, but his daughter Apollonia keeps the business flourishing. At this original (and decidedly diminutive) wood-paneled headquarters of the world-famous boulangerie Poilâne (8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, Sixth Arr.; 33-1/45-48-42-59; www.poilane.fr; closed Sundays), the bread is still baked in an antique wood-fired oven just downstairs.

Don't miss: The big, round miche; this dense sourdough loaf made from stone-ground flour can be decorated to your specifications and makes a fabulous gift. The rustic, free-form apple tart is another perennial favorite.

Baguettes

The shop: Philippe Gosselin, Grand Prix winner of the city's Best Baguette in Paris award, supplies bread and croissants to Jacques Chirac and the Elysée Palace. A classic baguette at Gosselin (125 Rue St.-Honoré, First Arr.; 33-1/45-08-03-59; closed Saturdays) is made from white flour, water, sea salt and leavening and has irregular air holes throughout from natural fermentation. "The baguette is the bread of Parisians," says Gosselin. "It has a life span of just six hours."

Don't miss: The shop's lunchtime array of baguette sandwiches, from ham-and-Gruyère to shrimp-and-avocado.

Pain aux raisins

The shop: Established in the firmament of great Paris bakers for the past 30 years, Basile Kamir is also one of the most influential. An advocate for things done the old-fashioned way, he lobbies for using stone-ground organic flours, forming loaves by hand, and long rising times. His Moulin de la Vierge (166 Ave. de Suffren, 15th Arr.; 33-1/47-83-45-55; closed Thursdays) is steeped in nostalgie, with vintage glass and ornate moldings.

Don't miss: The excellent pain aux raisins, a sumptuous swirl of soft croissant dough, eggy pastry cream, and raisins.

Pain au chocolat

The shop: A striking Art Deco boulangerie complete with starburst light fixtures, 1930's mirrors, and curved display cases, Boulangerie Bechu (118 Ave. Victor Hugo; 33-1/47-27-97-79; closed Mondays), in the heart of the chic 16th Arrondissement, is also a tearoom. Christian Marceau's retro d'or ficelle, a skinny, crisp variation of his "retro-style" pale-gold baguette, makes a perfect breakfast with apricot jam and café crème.

Don't miss: Pain au chocolat orange, an addictive variation on the classic treat, with citrusy notes enhancing the dark chocolate or the unusual, yet delicious, coco-banane, with lush flavors of coconut and banana.

Croissants aux amandes

The shop: After a visit to Père Lachaise Cemetery, resting place of Piaf and Proust, stop at La Flûte Gana (226 Rue des Pyrénées, 20th Arr.; 33-1/43-58-42-62; closed Sundays and Mondays), where Valérie, Isabelle and Marianne Ganachaud, daughters of the legendary Bernard Ganachaud, produce the house's venerable baguette.

Don't miss: Croissants aux amandes, originally conceived as a way to use day-old croissants, with an almond cream-and-kirsch filling, and brioche vendéenne, a template for the ultimate brioche, buttery with a hint of fresh vanilla.

Fougasse

The shop: A short walk from the Eiffel Tower, earnest young boulanger Thierry Dubois is baking his way to a growing reputation among the diplomats and doctors of the Seventh Arrondissement. At his peach-hued Pain D'Épis (63 Ave. Bosquet; 33-1/45-51-75-01; closed Saturdays), Dubois offers a range of specialty breads -- baguettes, boules and ficelles -- all from the same unique mixed-flour dough, a line that he calls Royale.

Don't miss: The fougasse, a ladder-shaped loaf dosed with olive oil and baked with fillings that change daily -- black olives one day, chèvre and tomatoes the next.

An American in Paris

2007-03-25T18:28:00.001+01:00

Each neighborhood of Paris has its own unique flair & local flavor. Each month we’ll spotlight a different experience in one of the twenty arrondissements and post new information on our upcoming apartments. See Paris from the eyes of those who live here...

MONTMARTRE, Sunday afternoon, 1:30pm

With the coming and going of Spring in Paris within the last week, today was a pleasant homecoming to the sun on the little hillside village known as Montmartre. Armed with fresh flowers and a warm croissant, I took a leisurely stroll down the well-known rue Lepic’s open air market. Sunday’s are by far the best day here, with pedestrians only, you’ll find the quartier alive with tourists and locals alike. Only Montmartre can offer something as picture perfect, with produce, cheese & wine, all to the soundtrack of a local jazz band equipped with tubas, upright bass and an antique accordion.

Do people really live like this? Mais oui....sure its touristy, but you’ll find this part of town to be a favorite of many visitors & Parisians alike, for its intimate feel and friendly ambiance. For an afternoon drink on a day like today, the terraces are filled, especially on rue des Abbesses where you’ll find our favorites like “Le Sancerre” & “le Vrai Paris”. For a fun and easy lunch, try your hand at the Zebre, famous for its Croque sandwiches and salads.

To break away from the crowds, I wandered down rue des Martyrs: The Rue des Martyrs starts at the Notre-Dame-de-Lorette Church and ends near the Place des Abbesses. The busy Boulevard de Rochechouart slices the street in two at the Pigalle Métro, and divides it between the 9th and the 18th Arrondissements. Both parts blend the coziness of a village frozen in time and the vitality of a neighborhood described as "bobo," or bourgeois bohemian..." Taken from New York Times Feb 27 2005...

Here you'll find another cluster of lively bars, bistros and locals spending a lazy Sunday catching up on what they do best, the French "Joie de Vivre". On certain Sundays you'll find this street closed to traffic and lined with local "antiques" or what at home we may call a neighboorhood yard sale. For those interested in trying your hand at the French language, this may be your best opportunity as shopkeepers along these streets are eager to chat the afternoon away.

On my way back home, I wave at my favorite flower shop owners, busy as usual wrapping up fresh flowers essential for those Sunday afternoon lunches with a local. I've been told, If you are invited to a French lunch or dinner and would like to bring something, do not bring wine (except to close friends) : your host has chosen the wine he considers the most appropriate and you will jeopardize his choice ! Bring flowers (but not : chrysanthemums -which are for cemeteries- or carnations-which the French think bring bad luck) or a box of chocolates. Of course, you can never go wrong with fresh tulips!

As the day comes to a close with the clouds rolling back in, the street markets and vendors too make their final sales for the day. Monday morning here will be a sleepy one, as most shops in Montmartre are closed, but come Tuesday, another week starts in Paris, and with it, hopefully the "Rite of Spring" we've all been waiting for.

When in Rome...

2007-03-25T18:27:00.003+01:00

Ciao Bella has created some very unique tours of Rome, from wine tasting to walking tours, we've found a new twist on a traditional Roman classic. Contact us at: info@ciaobellatours.com for more information.

CENTRAL WINES OF ITALY- Our expert wine connoisseur will talk about the history of wine, tasting techniques, how wine is made & how it should be served. Included are 3 wines, bruschette, cold cuts & cheeses. Choose from 3 tantalizing tastings! Minimum 2 participants. All tastings last 2 hours. They are available Monday through Saturday from 17:00 till 19:00

1. White wines from Central Italy
2. Red wines from Central Italy
3. Top wines from Central Italy: 3 excellent reds-this is our "la creme de la creme" in wine tastings!

LEATHER & LACE-ROMAN SHOPPING TOUR

Rome: the eternal city, full of art and history, and known for it’s fashion and top designers, but there's another Rome tourists rarely see. Your personal shopper will take you on a shopping tour of "unknown Rome", that you, as a tourist unfamiliar with the city, would not easily find on your own.
Together with your personal shopping consultant, you'll discover:
• Hidden shops with unique items
• Small boutiques known only to locals
• That special shop off the beaten path, perhaps tucked away in a historic building, where an artisan still uses the techniques passed down from generation to generation
• The bold local flavor, fascination and convenience of Rome’s lively markets
We will take you to our “hidden treasures”, where you can find what you have always dreamed about but was never able to afford it: Bulgari jewelry, a leather bag from Max Mara, a cashmere coat or a warm fur coat.

THE JEWISH GHETTEO TO TRASTEVERE

A meandering walk through narrow cobbled streets taking in jewels from all periods of Rome's long and illustrious history. Some of the highlights include the ancient Roman Theatre of Marcellus, the picturesque Fountain of the Turtles, the charming medieval church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, and the beautiful baroque fountain of the Aqua Paola. The climax of the tour is the enchanting view over the rooftops of Rome. This is a 2 hour walking tour.

A NEW TWIST...The following 4 unique walking tours offer a glimpse into some of the most important and yet overlooked places in Rome. With our experienced art historian, you’ll see Rome like no other tourist, visiting the “off the beaten path” monuments and neighborhoods of the Eternal City. Each tour lasts approximately 3-4 hours.

THE CARAVAGGIO TRAIL
Caravaggio was one of the great painters of the Baroque era. He mastered the technique of darkness and light - chiaro e scuro - in a way that no other painter could. A photo snapshot of everyday life caught on canvas. In his short turbulent life his social milieu varied from the low life of the Roman streets right to the top of the aristocracy and the Papacy. A difficult, quick-tempered individual he was as adept with the sword as he was with the brush.
This tour takes you into the scandalous world of Caravaggio to see the great religious works painted in his own unique style and to discover the environs where Caravaggio spent most of his time in Rome. A true genius who died prematurely by the hand of fate.

BEAUTIFUL BAROQUE-BERNINI & BORROMINI
Discover the wonderful world of Baroque by two of the greatest exponents of this art form - Bernini and Borromini. This walk takes you into the world of these famous rivals and shows you their profound influence on the Eternal City. From the sublime simplicity of the colonnade at St Peter's, the ethereal beauty of the Angels of the Bridge, the perfect symmetry of the Sapienza, to the Chiesa Santa Maria della Vittoria where we find Bernini's talents at their finest, blurring the boundaries between sculpture, painting and architecture.A truly inspirational walk through the city of Rome!

A WALK THROUGH HISTORY- OSTIA ANTICA & ST. PAUL'S

Ostia Antica was founded by the Romans at the mouth of the river Tiber around the 4th century BC and was Rome's main port for nearly 600 years.
It is a beautifully preserved area which gives a fascinating insight into the everyday lives of the people who lived there. Unlike Pompeii which was a wealthy resort town for the upper classes, Ostia Antica was a working port. Its buildings reflect the tastes of all classes which can be seen in the magnificence of its public buildings, the fabulous mosaics in the public baths, the beautiful amphitheatre and the innovative high density housing for the working class.
Set amongst towering pine trees in a tranquil garden-like setting, this is the perfect excursion to escape the bustle of Rome. Close by is the medieval village of Ostia Antica dominated by a moated castle. On our return to the city we visit St. Paul's, an imposing and vast cathedral. Its hidden treasure, the Benedictine cloisters, are a masterpiece of Cosmati mosaic work.
Approx. 9am-2pm.

A WALK WITH THE ROMANS

This tour takes you into the world of the Romans and the monuments that made up part of their everyday life. We start at Piazza Bocca della Verità to see the temples of Hercules and Portanus, the famous Bocca della Verità - Mouth of Truth - and the fabulous marble floors of the Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin. A short stroll from here to the river Tiber and across the ancient Roman bridges to Trastevere to see the beautiful mosaics of Santa Maria in Trastevere.
We take short break for an aperitivo or a gelato before continuing to the Jewish Quarter and the Theatre of Marcelo. A truly fascinating walk, full of wonderful pieces that make up the many layers of this extraordinary city.

SAINTS & SINNERS

An in-depth look at the most important figures in Roman history, from Popes to scandalous artists, we'll see how each sinner & saint has impacted how we see the Eternal City today.

• Bernini's Angel Bridge
• Castel Sant'Angelo (from outside)
• Via della Conciliazione
• The Borgo
• Piazza San Pietro and Bernini's Colonnade
• St. Peter's Basilica and Crypt

MORE TO COME....Roman Scandals, Built in a Day-Total Italian Emmersion and Treasures of Rome-Antique Tour

Paris Restaurants

2007-03-25T18:27:00.001+01:00

MARAIS

"Le Loir dans la Theiere"
(article courtesy of Alternative Paris)
If you're tired of the uninspired American-style brunches offered by the chain hotels in town, stop by Le Loir dans La Theiere ("The Doormouse in the Teapot") and join the crowd of locals who come for Saturday/Sunday brunch.

The restaurant is basically a large drawing room filled with mismatched chairs, wing chairs, settees, ottomans and sideboards. For example, the first seats available to you and your companion may be a cozy loveseat where you'll be eating off a low coffee table. These unusual seating arrangements give the feeling of being a guest in a grand salon, participating in what the French feel are their god-given rights: eating good food and discussing the world while doing so. It becomes the perfect place to eat with a group as the the furniture is quite movable and clustered into groups. If you must sit in a traditional place setting, there are tables and chairs in the back (which you may have to wait for) where it's much quieter.

Doormouse serves a very fresh tasting brunch at a fair price. To accompany the basket of bread, I tried the baked eggs with cream, chives and bacon, a delicious alternative to the "benedict" style of egg preparation. My friend ate an omelette with cream cheese and fresh mint leaf filling, an inspired combination. The service is a bit harried because the room is so full, but remember, you didn't come just to eat. You came to talk and listen.

3 rue des rosiers
Paris 75004
0142729061
Type of Dining: Other
Type of Cuisine: French

Member Recommendation:
Highly Recommended
Price Range: US$10 - US$20
Attire: Casual
Reservations: No

"Benoit"

If you loved Benoît before it became the property of Alain Ducasse and Thierry de la Brosse -- the pair that revived Aux Lyonnais -- chances are you'll adore it now. Without changing the vintage 1912 setting, which needed nothing more than a minor dusting, the illustrious new owners have subtly improved the menu with dishes such as marinated salmon, frogs' legs in a morel mushroom cream sauce, and an outstanding cassoulet served in a cast-iron pot. Hardworking young chef David Rathgeber, formerly of Aux Lyonnais, keeps the kitchen running smoothly and the waiters are charm incarnate. It's a splurge to be here, so go all the way and top off your meal with tarte Tatin that's caramelized to the core or a rum-doused baba. AE, MC, V. Métro: Châtelet.

Address: 20 rue St-Martin, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-72-25-76

PALAIS ROYAL

"Le Grand Colbert"

One of the few independently owned brasseries remaining in Paris, Le Grand Colbert, with its globe lamps and ceiling moldings, feels grand yet not overpolished -- old theater posters still line the walls. It attracts a wonderfully Parisian mix of elderly lone diners, business lunchers, tourists, and couples who come for enormous seafood platters, duck foie gras with Sauternes jelly, and steak tartare. Whet your appetite with one of the "unjustly forgotten" aperitifs, such as bitter Salers or sweet Lillet Blanc. It's best to stick to classics, as these are what the kitchen does best. Finish with profiteroles (choux pastry filled with ice cream and smothered in hot chocolate sauce). AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Bourse.

Address: 2-4 rue Vivienne, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-86-87-88

"Pinxo"

The word pinxo means "to pinch" in Basque, and this is how the food in this fashionable hotel restaurant is designed to be eaten -- often with your fingers, and off your dining companion's plate. (Each dish is served in three portions to allow for sharing.) Alain Dutournier, who also runs the more formal Le Carré des Feuillants nearby, drew on his southwestern roots to create this welcoming modern spot. Freed from the tyranny of the entrée-plat-dessert cycle, you can nibble your way through such mini-dishes as marinated herring with Granny Smith apple and horseradish, and squid cooked à la plancha (on a griddle) with ginger and chile peppers, then end, perhaps, with fresh pineapple and a piña colada sorbet. Some dishes work better than others, but it's hard not to love a place that serves deep-fried Camembert as a cheese course. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Tuileries.

Address: Hôtel Plaza Paris Vendôme, 9 rue d'Alger, Paris, France
Phone: 01-40-20-72-00

ST GERMAIN DES PRES

"Alcazar"

To take in the scene at Sir Terence Conran's brasserie -- and quite a scene it is, as this place seats 300 under a skylight roof -opt for a table on the mezzanine, where a long brushed-steel bar gives you a bird's-eye view and you can choose from a number of set menus that include a drink. Chef Guillaume Lutard trained at Taillevent and Prunier, and his background informs the seasonal contemporary menu, which changes every two months. Be warned, however, the open kitchen has always turned out inconsistent food -- although homesick British expats agree that the fish-and-chips served with malt vinegar are divine. The DJs and the tasty EUR29 Sunday brunch -- served up with a soothing Shiatsu massage (they have a massage chair where you can have a 10-minute Shiatsu massage) -- both have their loyal followers. www.alcazar.fr. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: Odéon.

Address: 62 rue Mazarine, Paris, France
Phone: 01-53-10-19-99

"Le Bastide Odéon"

The kitchen of this popular Provençal bistro near the Jardin du Luxembourg, with terra-cotta floors and upholstered chairs, has been opened up so you can watch the cooks at work. Chef Gilles Ajuelos demonstrates an expert, loving, and creative hand with Mediterranean cuisine -- expect unusual dishes, such as aged Spanish ham with a grilled pepper pipérade and artichoke; mushroom and pea risotto with arugula; duck breast with orange sauce, date puree, polenta, and wild asparagus; and, to finish things off, pear poached with lemon and saffron and served with a fromage blanc sorbet. An entire section of the menu is devoted to vegetarian dishes. www.bastide-odeon.com. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun., Mon., 2 wks in Aug., and 1 wk at Christmas. Métro: Odéon; RER: Luxembourg.

Address: 7 rue Corneille, Paris, France
Phone: 01-43-26-03-65

MONTMARTRE

"Bistro Tea Folies"

Great for tea and brunches, this charming French Bistro serves scrumptious salads, pasta and traditional cuisine. My personal favorite is the Chevre Chaud (warm goat’s cheese salad). Tea Folies is best on Sundays when the sun is out so you can enjoy the terrace overlooking the square. Known as the meeting place of all the locals, place Gustave Toudouze is full of charm. 6, place Gustave Toudouze. 9th Tel:01 42 80 08 44. Metro: St George

"Chez Toinette"

Between the red lights of Pigalle and the Butte Montmartre, this cozy bistro with red walls and candlelight hits the romance nail on the head. In autumn and winter game comes into play in long-simmered French dishes -- choose from marcassin (young wild boar), venison, and pheasant. Regulars can't resist the crème brûlée and the raspberry tart. Prices have crept up and a new owner took over in 2005, but Chez Toinette is still a rare find for this neighborhood. MC, V. Closed Sun., Mon., Aug., and 2 wks at Christmas. No lunch. Métro: Pigalle.

Address: 20 rue Germaine Pilon, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-54-44-36

"La Mascotte"

Though everyone talks about the "new Montmartre," exemplified by a wave of chic residents and throbbingly cool cafés and bars, it's good to know that the old Montmartre is alive and well at the untrendy-and-proud-of-it Mascotte. This old-fashioned café-brasserie is where you'll find neighborhood fixtures such as the drag queen Michou (of the nearby club Chez Michou), who always wears blue. Loyalists come for the seafood platters, the excellent steak tartare, and the gossip around the comptoir (the bar) up front. MC, V. Métro: Abbesses.

Address: 52 rue des Abbesses, Paris, France
Phone: 01-46-06-28-15

"Le Ch'ti Catalan"

Run by two friends, one from the north of France (best known for its potent cheeses and creative uses for Belgian endive) and the other from the Catalan-influenced southwest, this bistro has a unique mission in Paris: to combine the two seemingly incompatible styles. Though the restaurant looks a bit scruffy from the outside, the interior is painted in warm ochre tones and the chatty staff will put you at ease. Among the seasonal dishes on the handwritten chalkboard menu, you might come across a wonderful starter of roasted red peppers and fresh anchovies, delicious pork simmered with white beans, and steak with potent Maroilles cheese. MC, V. Closed weekends. Métro: Notre-Dame-de-Lorette.

Address: 4 rue de Navarin, Paris, France
Phone: 01-44-63-04-33

"Les Vivres"

The brainchild of Jean-Luc André, chef at the elegant Pétrelle next door, Les Vivres translates as "survival supplies," and many devotees now feel they couldn't live without it. Down the hill from Montmartre on a quiet residential street, this stylish dining room -- like the French country home you wish you had -- serves lunch nonstop from 11-7 and dinner on Friday nights. You'll always find seasonal vegetables, which are grilled, marinated, or slow-roasted; a savory tart; and such hearty dishes as farmer's rabbit with Nyons olives, hachis parmentier (shepherd's pie), and squid fricassee. Jars of jams and preserves are available to take home. MC, V. Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug. Métro: Anvers.

Address: 28 rue Pétrelle, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-80-26-10

GRAND BOULEVARD

"Le Phenix"

This traditional French restaurant offers gourmet cuisine at bistro pricing. Frequented by locals, and rarely found by tourists, le Phénix Café has re-created a small "musée du vin" with a rich selection of french wines accompanied by family style cuisine. This is a personal favorite of many, so be sure to get there early for lunch or dinner, or call ahead for reservations.

4 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière
75010 Paris
Telephone: 01 47 70 35 40
Open Monday-Friday from 11:30-3pm and 6:30pm-10:30
Saturday from 6:30pm-10:30 only
Closed on Sundays

REPUBLIQUE

"Chez Jenny"

This classic two-story brasserie is famed for its infectious buzz and outstanding choucroute, delivered weekly by a private supplier in Alsace and served with a panoply of charcuterie and an oversize grilled ham knuckle. If this sounds like too much meat, the seafood platters are reliably good, as well. To finish, the perfectly aged Muenster cheese and homemade blueberry tart are fine choices. Staff in regional dress and woodwork by Charles Spindler add a charming Alsatian touch. Although reservations aren't required, prepare to stand in line without one. www.chez-jenny.com. AE, DC, MC, V. Métro: République.

Address: 39 bd. du Temple, Paris, France
Phone: 01-44-54-39-00

CBT Travel Tips

2007-03-25T17:00:00.000+01:00

BEFORE YOU LEAVE:

-Make sure you have a valid passport + 1 photocopy.
-We highly suggest purchasing travel insurance in case of an unavoidable cancellation or any incident that may occur while overseas. CBT recommends:
1. Travel Guard- www.travelguard.com
2. International Medical Group -www.imglobal.com

ONCE YOU ARRIVE:

-MONEY MATTERS-You can exchange your money for local currency at various places in Europe. Places like Western Union, American Express, local banks, or shops with “change”, “cambio”, etc. can exchange your money for a nominal fee. Not all places in Europe accept Travelers checks, so its best to have some cash on hand. In fact, instead of bringing money to exchange, use the ATM machines, which won't charge you commission like a change place will. There are various ATM machines in all European cities. Check with your bank for any extra fees that may apply.

-HOTELS & LUGGAGE-CBT strives to find hotels that are comfortable, well located and help make your stay pleasant while in Europe. Please note that most hotels in Europe are quite small compared to the hotels found in the States. When packing luggage, please also note that if you have a journey by train, there are no porters to help load and unload, even in first class.

-TRANSPORTATION- Most trains in Europe depart and arrive on time. To avoid any last minute stress, please allow yourself plenty of time to catch your train (or flight) while on your tour. Taxis are quite easy to find in any major city. If you are worried about the cost, we encourage you to discuss the fee with your driver prior to leaving. Please note most taxis charge an extra fee for pick up/drop off from train stations and airports, and also charge a luggage handling fee.

-SECURITY- Always mind your belongings while traveling, regardless of the city you are in. Never have your passport or wallet in sight as pickpockets will act fast. If using a backpack, do no put valuables in the pockets that can easily be opened in busy places. On the metro, mind your bags at all times. Some travelers like to use “money belts” for peace of mind.

-HOTEL SECURITY-Many of the European hotels offer a room safe, or front desk safe. These are a great idea, and worth any daily fee for use. Be careful, if you are using the hotel safe, and have an early departure time, be sure to remove your passport and valuables the evening before your flight!

-ELECTRICITY-European electrical current is 220 volts and 50 cycles, and the outlets are different from the ones used in America. You may need an adaptor to use your US appliances in Europe, which can be found at stores like Radio Shack.

-TIPPING At restaurants, bars and cafés, the tip is included in the price. If you feel you’ve received exceptional service, feel free to leave some change on the table. Otherwise, know your “service compris” already includes the tip! Also note that in most restaurants in Europe, the server will not bring your bill unless you ask for it. Tipping is customary for bellhops, taxis, hotel concierges and any local guides. Please always tip in the local currency.

-DRIVING- Most travelers find driving in Europe quite easy. While your US drivers license is valid in Europe, if renting a car please check with the company’s policy regarding an “international license”. If an “international license” is needed, check with your nearest AAA for information.

-LAST BUT NOT LEAST we always recommend learning a few key phrases in the local language. A hello, please & thank you will open all doors for travelers!